November 14, 2024In conversation with Katarina Protsack: Founder & Creative Director of London’s Emerging Fashion Label Blue NudeInterview & Photography by Coline L’Achiver
Originally from Canada, Katarina Protsack has found her creative refuge in the heart of London, establishing the headquarters of her fashion house, Blue Nude, at Hackney Downs Studios. It’s within this vibrant, electric atmosphere that Katarina’s vision for her slow fashion label takes shape, effortlessly blending her love for art, music, travel and the vivid colour palette of nature with her keen entrepreneurial spirit.

Blue Nude is a brand with a soul, driven by the philosophy that fashion, at its core, can be both expressive and ethical. It’s a delicate balance of artistic freedom and  profound respect for socio-environmental realities. Each piece is crafted with intention, mindful of its impact, and guided by an unwavering ethos that creation in the 21st century must uncompromisingly resonate with responsibility.

For Katarina, fashion goes beyond aesthetics; it’s a matter of conscience. Blue Nude’s designs reflect a deep commitment to artistry, with respect for both the planet and humanity. The brand embodies a fusion of creativity and compassion, offering a fresh perspective on fashion: one that honours sustainability, craftsmanship, and a reverence for the environment and the artisans who bring these visions to life.

In short, Blue Nude stands as a modern testament to the idea that style, substance, and sustainability are not mutually exclusive, but rather, they can elegantly co-exist avec amour.
Coline: What is Blue Nude’s story?Katarina: After working in many different segments of the apparel industry (luxury, fast fashion, and elite performance) I became discouraged by the industry's lack of care for/interest in sustainability. Meanwhile, as an active participant in the underground music and art scenes of the UK and Canada, I had forged friendships with many amazing creative talents and wanted to start a business in which we could work together, and that could provide a revenue stream, publicity, and engaging projects for artists.

After commissioning MET, a painter and close friend who ended up being my first collaborator, to create a painting for my home, he additionally gifted me an experimental artwork on raw canvas. I wrapped the piece of canvas around my leg and thought 'this would be incredible on a pant'! This planted the seed (along with encouragement from industry peers, family, and friends) to start my own brand with a multi-disciplinary approach. I wanted to offer consumers art-informed printed and colourful clothing, at an accessible price point. At this time, I was only seeing this level of print design at big luxury brands like Pucci and Missoni. I wanted to make, essentially, wearable and contemporary pieces of art.

The name Blue Nude (as I always get asked) derives from the Matisse 'Blue Nudes'  paper cutout series. It came to me very quickly and easily! I love this series, the Tate Modern's 2014 Matisse exhibition was highly influential in my life and inspired me to learn fashion illustration. Besides this, I love the feeling of the blue nudes  - the freedom, expression, and movement of the human form. I wanted people to feel as free and joyful wearing my clothing as Matisse's figures were.”



What is slow fashion for you?Slow fashion is the antithesis of fast fashion - it’s considered, thoughtful, and champions artisan craftsmanship. For me, slow fashion represents an emotional bond to the things you are creating.
How important are artisanal know-how and local production to you, and why? I value making in London for a few reasons. First, environmentally, I can collect my orders without having to ship them, or at the least, ship them a very small distance. As well, I value the relationships I have been building with my production studios over the past few years and it has been so handy to be able to visit their factories within an hour in case a problem arises or my input is needed. I also value the knowledge and taste my local producers have. They are connected to the city and the contemporary drive of fashion in London. They manufacture quality clothing, but also have a finesse for the small details and how those impact the overall look of the garment. Everything is made with passion, by myself and my suppliers. We are all proud of what we do, and it shows!

As for artisans, I am mesmerized by their ability to perfect techniques and craft. I see it almost as a practice of zen buddhism - the work is meditational. The knowledge that is passed down from generation to generation is of so much value, and I absolutely believe this should be celebrated and preserved. Yes, we can automate a lot of things now but, as with analog technology (records, film cameras), it seems we still cannot automate the perfection of human imperfection.



In your view, what responsibilities do brands and consumers have when it comes to environmental and social issues?When I first started working on Blue Nude, I believed that responsibility fell mostly on consumers. I have certainly changed my attitude since then.

My dedication to sustainability and ethics revolves around my belief that a business should operate as responsibly as possible. To that, businesses, and the government, should be making ethical choices as easy as possible for the consumer. A lot of us would love to make better choices with the products we consume, but realistically with all the demands of our life (work, family, friends, time to take care of ourselves) it is not necessarily realistic to have to dig for information on the ethics of how specific products are made. It blows my mind that consumers in the UK are not protected by law from purchasing products that were made with forced or child labour. I’m positive a vast majority of the population would not support these products if they knew the ethical issues, but information on supply chains is so convoluted that you can’t expect the average consumer to understand the implications of buying products with, for example, forced labour in Xinjiang. And that is if they can even find that information!

I believe in the shift from supply and demand economics to demand and supply. Businesses need to take responsibility for their excess and waste - we must produce responsibly. I wholeheartedly support government taxation on excessive waste, and banning the burning of excess inventory.



What are your thoughts on restorative and regenerative business models, such as the Circular Economy, especially in the fashion industry? I think these are great solutions. I really respect designers and creatives who are able to make something beautiful out of something used. It takes a lot of time, effort, and imagination. It truly is the most sustainable solution to our waste problem.

In terms of my own ability to bring circular practices into my business, I am an avid recycler, I reuse almost all things that come into my studio (shipping materials, plastic protection, paper) at least once. If recycled fabric options are available, I choose these over virgin material. In a short amount of time, for my new collection Raha, I will be launching my first true upcycling pieces in collaboration with textile artist Chisara Vidale. It has been interesting to see how I can contribute to this space within my own creative capacity.

Blue Nude’s aesthetic is built upon a foundation of artistic expression, and the brand’s name itself pays homage to Henri Matisse’s iconic Blue Nude collages and gouaches. Could you elaborate on the importance of artistic collaborations within your brand?The artistic collaborations are the heart and soul of Blue Nude, I’d say. I am always inspired by how much further an idea can go when you combine the viewpoints of two creatives.

In terms of special attention, I always make sure the theme of the collection and the meaning behind the chosen area of inspiration aligns with the artist and how I perceive their work. I explain the meaning of the concept behind the collection when we begin our practice, and give direction on colour, but I like to give the artists a sense of freedom to interpret these concepts genuinely on how they respond to them. I never want to dictate.

Working with an artist you admire and respect can sometimes feel a bit intimidating, but I have been touched by how open and sensitive all of my collaborators have been. Our collections and designs feel like a special experience we have together, and we leave the process with beautiful pieces of wearable art and a new friendship.

What defines the Blue Nude silhouettes? That is a good question - something I am taking time to consider this year as I further develop Blue Nude’s brand identity. I can’t say I will ever wholeheartedly commit to a specific silhouette as I wouldn’t want the restriction on my ability to design and create. However, I think a commonality I will always have in my designs is that they are comfortable and allow for movement. Clothing to feel free and expressive in. Even the Zia Detachable Sculpture Bustier I made with Sculptor Lea Rose Kara is comfortable!

I also prefer to pair the vibrancy of the colours and prints I work with, with clean, simple lines in the garments I design. I believe this keeps the pieces looking elegant and does not overwhelm the beauty of those wearing them.



Can you share three of your favourite pieces from the Blue Nude journey so far? In terms of what I wear the most in my own life, it probably is my Pender Denim Trousers, which feature an abstract camo print from visual artist Jamie House. They are on constant rotation in my wardrobe, and have been worn with everything from heels to dinner, to combat boots for warehouse parties.

I’d say the ‘chicest’ piece I’ve ever designed is the Li Utilitarian Maxi Skirt - I had been dreaming of this skirt for years in my head, and I was thrilled to have a moment to bring it to life. I feel like a badass goth space queen when I wear it.

As for the piece I’m proudest of, it’s my Zia Detachable Sculpture Bustier with Lea Rose Kara. I think it’s the most innovative thing I’ve designed, and it truly went to a new level once Lea got involved. It represents a perfect symbiosis of our creative practices. I think we’ve both never spent so much time making something in our lives. And again - did I mention it’s extremely comfortable?!